1. Clear all trash and debris from planting area. To prepare soil, till the ground to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, or use an alternate method to loosen up the top layer.
2. Allow loose soil to settle or roll lightly to firm loose dirt to prevent erosion.
3. Make sure all grading leads water away from buildings and prevent pools from forming.
4. Rake lightly to form small furrows for the seed.
5. Spread the seed evenly at the recommended rate for your seed type.
6. Rake lightly again at an angle to cover the seed and work it into the top ¼ of soil.
7. Alternatively use a drill seeder in place of steps 4-6. (Recommended) A drill seeder drops seed on the ground and haves a roller with tines on it to pack seed into the soil.) It is also recommended to go over the area twice at half rate using a different angle the second time to be sure no spots are missed.
8. Optional: Roll ground to pack in seed.
9. Optional: Apply a starter fertilizer to ensure adequate soil nutrition and speed establishment.
10. Water to saturate the area completely. Continue to water as needed to keep the soil moist without creating large puddles. Water can be gradually reduced as seedlings grow and mature.
11. Begin mowing when new seed is tall enough to need mowing (usually 3 to 3.5 inches tall). Make sure ground is firm enough to resist leaving tracks in the ground.
1. The best method is to rent an over-seeder or slit-seeder to make sure new seed makes it into the ground, thus ensuring best germination rate. If a seeder is used skip to step 6.
2. Optional: Mow existing lawn to a short height. The shorter the height the more damage it done to the existing grass. Avoid this if you don’t want to hurt your current lawn.
3. Optional: If a seeder is unavailable the ground can be power raked to loosen up the soil. Note that this will also cause damage to the existing lawn.
4. Aerate the lawn multiple times over to more chances for the seed to get into the soil.
5. Spread the seed at the recommended rate with a spreader or by hand.
6. Optional: A thin layer (1/4 inch) of soil can be top dressed to cover any seed on the surface in exposed areas.
7. Optional: Apply a starter fertilizer to ensure adequate soil nutrition and speed establishment.
8. Water to saturate the area completely. Continue to water as needed to keep the soil moist without creating large puddles. Water can be gradually reduced as seedlings grow and mature.
9. Continue to mow existing grass as needed.
10. Note when over-seeding fescues into a bluegrass lawn the result may seem clumpy due to the difference in the grasses and may take several years of over-seeding to complete the transition.* If seeding in the spring, use a SEED/SOD starter fertilizer with "Tupersan". This is a special product that prevents crabgrass in the seeded area, without preventing your grass seed from germinating. Do not use a standard pre-emergent at the time of seeding, it will prevent your grass seed from germinating.
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