(402) 624-6385
MON - FRI: 8AM-5PM • SAT: CLOSED • SUN: CLOSED
950 County Road M • Mead, NE 68041
SPECIALIZING IN PREMIUM QUALITY TURFGRASS, GRASS SEED, & GRASS PLUGS

How to Install Grass Seed Yourself

DIY Grass Plugs Installation

New Seeding:

1. Clear all trash and debris from planting area. To prepare soil, till the ground to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, or use an alternate method to loosen up the top layer.

2. Allow loose soil to settle or roll lightly to firm loose dirt to prevent erosion.

3. Make sure all grading leads water away from buildings and prevent pools from forming.

4. Rake lightly to form small furrows for the seed.

5. Spread the seed evenly at the recommended rate for your seed type.

6. Rake lightly again at an angle to cover the seed and work it into the top ¼ of soil.

7. Alternatively use a drill seeder in place of steps 4-6. (Recommended) A drill seeder drops seed on the ground and haves a roller with tines on it to pack seed into the soil.) It is also recommended to go over the area twice at half rate using a different angle the second time to be sure no spots are missed.

8. Optional: Roll ground to pack in seed.

9. Optional: Apply a starter fertilizer to ensure adequate soil nutrition and speed establishment.

10. Water to saturate the area completely. Continue to water as needed to keep the soil moist without creating large puddles. Water can be gradually reduced as seedlings grow and mature.

11. Begin mowing when new seed is tall enough to need mowing (usually 3 to 3.5 inches tall). Make sure ground is firm enough to resist leaving tracks in the ground.

Over Seeding:

1. The best method is to rent an over-seeder or slit-seeder to make sure new seed makes it into the ground, thus ensuring best germination rate. If a seeder is used skip to step 6.

2. Optional: Mow existing lawn to a short height. The shorter the height the more damage it done to the existing grass. Avoid this if you don’t want to hurt your current lawn.

3. Optional: If a seeder is unavailable the ground can be power raked to loosen up the soil. Note that this will also cause damage to the existing lawn.

4. Aerate the lawn multiple times over to more chances for the seed to get into the soil.

5. Spread the seed at the recommended rate with a spreader or by hand.

6. Optional: A thin layer (1/4 inch) of soil can be top dressed to cover any seed on the surface in exposed areas.

7. Optional: Apply a starter fertilizer to ensure adequate soil nutrition and speed establishment.

8. Water to saturate the area completely. Continue to water as needed to keep the soil moist without creating large puddles. Water can be gradually reduced as seedlings grow and mature.

9. Continue to mow existing grass as needed.

10. Note when over-seeding fescues into a bluegrass lawn the result may seem clumpy due to the difference in the grasses and may take several years of over-seeding to complete the transition.

*  If seeding in the spring, use a SEED/SOD starter fertilizer with “Tupersan”.  This is a special product that prevents crabgrass in the seeded area, without preventing your grass seed from germinating.

Note: Do not use a standard pre-emergent at the time of seeding, it will prevent your grass seed from germinating.

 

Before Installation:

Make sure your soil is ready for sod.   (Click here for tips on how to prepare your soil for sod.)

Soil Preparation Check List:

  • Are there any depressions or bumps in the yard?
  • Are there any dirt clods bigger than a marble?
    Is all old vegetation removed?
  • Are sprinklers in good working order and applying uniform coverage?
  • Is the soil next to the sidewalks and driveway cut down 1 inch to allow for the sod?
  • Is there access to all parts of the yard for the installation machines?
  • If installing yourself, do you have enough help to complete the installation within a few hours? 

Starter Fertilizer:

Fertilize the area with a sod/seed starter fertilizer according to the label directions.  Apply fertilizer directly under the sod.  Do not incorporate the fertilizer into the soil.  It is not necessary for you to water the soil before you lay the sod except under extreme conditions of heat, then a light watering to cool the soil may be beneficial.

Installation:

Install the sod within 12 hours of delivery.  Begin installing the sod along the longest straight line, such as along the driveway, a sidewalk or a lot line.  Butt and push edges and ends against each other tightly without stretching the sod.  Avoid gaps or overlapping the sod.  Stagger the joints in each row in a brick like fashion, using a sharp knife carefully to trim corners, etc.  Avoid leaving small strips at outer edges as they will not retain moisture.  On slopes, place the pieces across the slope.

Watering:

Install sod to coordinate with your irrigation zones, so that as soon as one zone is installed you can water it.  DO NOT wait until the entire project is finished.  If you do not have an irrigation system, set portable sprinklers up as soon as an area is complete.  Water to thoroughly wet the sod and the soil underneath.

Complete installation, watering each zone or area as they are completed.

At times of very high temperatures and wind, it may be necessary to lightly water the sod with a hose as it is being installed.  This will prevent the grass blades from wilting.

When sodding is complete, keep the entire area saturated, but do not allow water to puddle on the grass.  Slopes may need to be watered more often with less water per application to prevent water runoff.  Areas along concrete and next to buildings where the sun reflects should be given extra care and water.  The initial watering is the most important.

BE SURE THE WATER HAS SOAKED THROUGH THE SOD AND HAS SATURATED THE GROUND UNDER THE SOD. Once you get behind on watering, it may be hard to catch up.  You may have to water several times per day for the first 2 weeks.

After Installation:

If your sod is installed before fall, (when grassy weeds stop germinating) you should apply a pre-emergent herbicide or a fertilizer with crabgrass preventer to control any crabgrass, foxtail or other grassy weeds from coming through the seams in the sod.  Most lawn and garden centers or hardware stores will handle these products.  Read and follow the label directions.  This application should be done within three days of installation.

Notice only for Buffalograss: Buffalograss sod goes through a stress period after installation.  Within 5 days of installation, the grass blades will turn 80% brown.  Do Not Panic!  This is normal.  It is very important to keep watering the sod.  It will return to green in about 3 to 4 weeks.

Your sod should shoot new roots within 5 to 7 days.  To check for root growth, carefully lift a piece of sod and look at the bottom side.  White shoots should be showing.

By 10 to 14 days your sod should be rooting down.  If you pull up on the sod you should feel resistance.  This is the roots from the sod, growing into the ground.  At this time you may reduce watering.  Keep the soil moist, but not saturated from now on.

Mow your sod as soon as it requires it.  Use care the first time not to catch the corners of the sod pieces in the mower.  You may want to mow at a greater height until you are sure the sod is firmly rooted.  You may begin light activities on your new turf once mowing has started.  By 30 days, treat your new sod as an established yard.

 

              Figure 1:    x            x            x            x             x

                           x            x             x            x           x

                                  x            x            x            x            x

Soil Erosion Prevention:

If you have a slope that you want to place the plugs on, but are worried about erosion, you will need to use some kind of erosion control.  After installation is complete, place a lightweight biodegradable erosion control mat or straw mat on top of the plugs.  This will help control the erosion and help keep the area moist, but will not interfere with the growth of the plugs.

Watering:

Water your new plugs immediately after planting, soaking each plug thoroughly with Miracle Gro 15-30-15 general purpose plant food, following label instructions.  This will give your plugs a boost that will help insure success.  Keep the area wet for the first 3 to 4 weeks, then slowly reduce watering, but keep the ground moist until the plugs have completely covered the area.  This additional watering will keep the plugs actively growing and spreading as quickly as possible.  After this period, additional watering will depend on your natural rainfall and temperatures, as well as your soil type.  Clay soil will require less water than sandy soil.  Water Bella to prevents stress remembering Bella will establish a deep root system reducing the watering frequency.  It will take about 12 months for the root system to fully develop.

After installation is complete, saturate each plug with Miracle Gro general purpose fertilizer or fertilize the area with a sod/seed starter fertilizer. Both are available at your local garden center. Read and follow the directions on the label for proper rates and application.

Weed Control:

Immediately after planting, apply a fertilizer with pre-emergent weed control following the label directions.  Scotts makes Halts Crabgrass Preventer® or Turfbuilder with Halts®.   Most garden centers will have these products or similar herbicides. Repeat this application at 1/2 rate in 8 weeks if you planted in the spring.

Throughout the summer, Broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, clover or pigweeds can be controlled after they emerge using broadleaf weed herbicides labeled for bluegrass. Common products are 2-4D or Trimec or a granular weed and feed products like Scotts Turfbuilder Plus2®.  ALWAYS READ THE LABEL BEFORE APPLYING!

Without Herbicides:

If you wish to avoid the use of chemicals, hand eradication of weeds and mowing at 1 – 1 ½ inches during establishment will benefit your new planting. When using this method, your establishing Bella plugs will still benefit from organic or inorganic fertilizer applications.

To reduce the amount of hand weeding, an organic weed control, corn gluten or an organic fertilizer with corn gluten can be applied to reduce the amount of weeds in the planting.  Corn Gluten is not 100% effective the first few years but continual use every year will improve control.  Corn gluten is a natural product made from corn and is available at most Garden Centers.

Mowing:

Mowing is important during the establishment period to encourage Bella to spread and to control weed growth.  Keep area mowed at 1 to 1½ inches as frequently as necessary to control weed growth.  After establishment mow as you desire.  If left un-mowed Bella will reach an average height of 3 to 4 inches.